Sumac
If you’re a Northern Virginia resident and looking for your next day trip out to the Virginia countryside, keep reading…
The two places where I have spent the most time in my life – Florida and Northern Virginia. (We will leave Georgia, Argentina, Pennsylvania, and Northern Spain aside for the time being). Both have the welcome benefit of being “agg states,” or states where agriculture flourishes almost year round. This, in concert with my mother’s perpetual distillation of food philosophy from the vapors of Florida coastal living, bred in me a deep appreciation and genuine curiosity for local agriculture, slow food movements, and organic farming. (I was, after all, raised on books like The Man Who Cooked For Himself and Ishmael). To this end, you all know I have a CSA and routinely patronize local establishments with a focus on procuring local, seasonal ingredients – produce, meat, and dairy alike.
There are two places in particular in Northern Virginia that live into the #locallysourced theme extraordinarily well – one of those two is featured here today.
The purveyors of Sumac, Northern Virginia’s newest local food pop-up kitchen in Sperryville, VA, are as down to earth as the stone fruits and cherries they are serving up this summer. Sumac (follow their Insta) was born from a love of local cooking.
Sumac is a spice grown in East Asia and Central Africa. A favorite flavor of mine, the Lebanese and Turkish have the most common varietals, the former a deep crimson, and the latter a lilac purple. As it turns out, Sumac grows in Northern Virginia as well. As the Sumac chef began planning his menus, it became apparent that a 100% local menu required some substitutions for common ingredients like oils, vinegars, and spices. Something that is not available in Northern Virginia is citrus, for which the sumac plant, with its citrus-y notes, became a viable substitute.
Sumac is housed at Penn Druid Brewing’s new location out in Sperryville, so barrel-fermented, natural cider and beer are available to accompany the Sumac menu. With 6-7 items split evenly between mains and desserts with a snack, Sumac announces its menu each week for its Thursday-Sunday opening. For fourth of July weekend, we were delighted with some of the best steak I have ever tasted, fennel pie topped with a light meringue (amazing!), chicken over a cornbread-esque base, an apricot tartine, and many local fruits and cheeses. It was quite the feast enjoyed under a vibrant sun, a strong wind, and in the company of the beautiful Shenandoah mountains. With picnic tables in a wide open field serving as your backdrop, this is easily the most peaceful, inspirational restaurant ambiance you’ll find in the area.
While Sperryville can be a bit of a hike for us Northern Virginian-ers, there are other things to do out there as well like Mary’s Rock hike with fantastic views (which does not require entrance to Skyline Drive) and the Copper Fox Distillery. So if you’ve got half a day to fill, I highly recommend the hour drive out West to experience some of the cleanest, most creative, most sustainable food in Northern Virginia. May all restaurants follow your example, Sumac – keep cooking!