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French Madeleine Tea Cakes

Or 'The Remembrance of Things"

tea cake cookie recipe one and a half slices french

“Will it ultimately reach the clear surface of my consciousness, this memory, this old, dead moment which the magnetism of an identical moment has travelled so far to importune, to disturb, to raise up out of the very depths of my being? I cannot tell. Now that I feel nothing, it has stopped, has perhaps gone down again into its darkness, from which who can say whether it will ever rise? Ten times over I must essay the task, must lean down over the abyss. And each time the natural laziness which deters us from every difficult enterprise, every work of importance, has urged me to leave the thing alone, to drink my tea and to think merely of the worries of to-day and of my hopes for tomorrow, which let themselves be pondered over without effort or distress of mind.

And suddenly the memory returns. The taste was that of the little crumb of madeleine which on Sunday mornings at Combray (because on those mornings I did not go out before church-time), when I went to say good day to her in her bedroom, my aunt Léonie used to give me, dipping it first in her own cup of real or of lime-flower tea. The sight of the little madeleine had recalled nothing to my mind before I tasted it; perhaps because I had so often seen such things in the interval, without tasting them, on the trays in pastry-cooks’ windows, that their image had dissociated itself from those Combray days to take its place among others more recent; perhaps because of those memories, so long abandoned and put out of mind, nothing now survived, everything was scattered; the forms of things, including that of the little scallop-shell of pastry, so richly sensual under its severe, religious folds, were either obliterated or had been so long dormant as to have lost the power of expansion which would have allowed them to resume their place in my consciousness. But when from a longdistant past nothing subsists, after the people are dead, after the things are broken and scattered, still, alone, more fragile, but with more vitality, more unsubstantial, more persistent, more faithful, the smell and taste of things remain poised a long time, like souls, ready to remind us, waiting and hoping for their moment, amid the ruins of all the rest; and bear unfaltering, in the tiny and almost impalpable drop of their essence, the vast structure of recollection.

And once I had recognized the taste of the crumb of madeleine soaked in her decoction of lime-flowers which my aunt used to give me (although I did not yet know and must long postpone the discovery of why this memory made me so happy) immediately the old grey house upon the street, where her room was, rose up like the scenery of a theatre to attach itself to the little pavilion, opening on to the garden, which had been built out behind it for my parents (the isolated panel which until that moment had been all that I could see); and with the house the town, from morning to night and in all weathers, the Square where I was sent before luncheon, the streets along which I used to run errands, the country roads we took when it was fine. And just as the Japanese amuse themselves by filling a porcelain bowl with water and steeping in it little crumbs of paper which until then are without character or form, but, the moment they become wet, stretch themselves and bend, take on colour and distinctive shape, become flowers or houses or people, permanent and recognisable, so in that moment all the flowers in our garden and in M. Swann’s park, and the water-lilies on the Vivonne and the good folk of the village and their little dwellings and the parish church and the whole of Combray and of its surroundings, taking their proper shapes and growing solid, sprang into being, town and gardens alike, all from my cup of tea.”

– Marcel Proust, In Search of Lost Time, Swann’s Way (1913)

what you need

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup white sugar

3/4 cup flour, sifted (feel free to use pastry flour or cake flour if you have it)

2 large eggs

lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 Madeleine pan

how to make it

If desired, brown the butter in a saucepan; otherwise, simply melt the butter and let it stand to room temperature. 

Beat eggs and sugar together for ~8-10 minutes until it becomes fluffy, yellow, and ribbons run through it when a beater is removed. This is what makes a Madeleine a Madeleine – the fluffy, airy, egg beating process. 

Mix in the vanilla extract and the lemon zest. Then sift the flour and baking powder over the mixture, folding in with a rubber spatula, careful not to deflate or overmix the batter. 

Cover and chill the dough for 1 hour. In the meantime, brush each Madeleine divot in the pan with melted butter and preheat the oven to 350.

When the dough is ready, spoon about a tablespoon into each Madeleine divot, careful not to overfill the little molds. The dough will spread out quite a bit, so just one tablespoon in the center of the mold will suffice. The dough will be sticky and thick. 

Cook the Madeleines for ~8-10 minutes, or until the little edges just begin to brown. Remove and let cool in their tins before extracting them and sprinkling them with powdered sugar. Sere immediately.

Other Literature-Inspired Sweets
chocolate recipe on one and a half slices

WFD Bars

Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory was never my favorite movie but the final stint of an exceptionally long road trip left the Piemaker and I arguing full tilt over the identity of Willy Wonka’s Whipplescrumptious Fudegmallow Delight Bar. What was it? What did “whipplescrumptious” mean? “Fudgemallow” was simple enough to unpack but what innovation, what variation on the theme of a Milky Way or a chocolate-covered graham, did “whipplescrumptious” imply? After two failed batches of Sponge Candy – a candy with which I am intimately familiar given my two year residence in Erie, Pennsylvania – I arrived at a decent interpretation of the Whipplescrumptious Fudgemallow Delight Bar. You don’t have to have experience with candies to make this work (I didn’t!).

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[…] I’m not sure. I’ll be browning my butter until further notice. In some recipes, like my French Madeleines, it is integral to the flavor of the batter, but in other cases (like chocolate chip cookies), […]

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[…] madeleines (for anytime) […]

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